If you only have a week’s time, you would either explore only the area around Çeşme, or visit Karaburun, the coves and ports at the entrance to the Gulf of Izmir, or choose only the north or the south route. With two or more weeks you can plan a combination of different tours in the entire region. If you only have a week and do not wish to complete a longer tour, you can explore the area around Çeşme in more detail. Illdirgolf offers many ports and coves. Pay attention to the shoals and around the lighted little Alev Ada island upon entering. On Karaada, the “donkey island”, there are three deep narrow coves which provide shelter from the northern wind. The island is occupied by wild boars and donkeys, most of which stand on the shore of the middle cove and wait for the bread crumbs from day-trippers who moor on the small pier.
At the noble hotel Erythrai, there are two excellent fish restaurants (and a swimming pool, in case your children feel like it). Drei Häfen bieten sich an: das kleine Ilica, die Nobelmarina Altin Yunus (Swimmingpool; vereinbaren Sie über Funk Kanal 16 einen Arbeitskanal und fragen Sie, ob ein Platz frei ist) und das wunderschöne, absolut sichere Dalyanköy. Dalyanköy wird zur Zeit zu einer Marina mit ca. 200 Liegeplätzen ausgebaut. Bisher gibt es jedoch noch keine Marinastrukturen. Wenn Sie einen Liegeplatz bei den Fischlokalen bekommen, sollten Sie mit Heckanker anlegen. Die Fischrestaurants sind die besten der ganzen Gegend, und die Leute kommen bis von Izmir, um hier zu speisen. At the noble hotel Erythrai, there are two excellent fish restaurants (and a swimming pool, in case your children feel like it). Also very beautiful are the ports of Langada and Marnaro north of Chios. To the west of Chios, we were very pleased with Limnia, the quiet and absolutely safe port of the picturesque and impressive Volissos, hidden on the slopes below the massive Genoesian castle. The food is excellent and reasonable in the port taverns. Our favourite cove is the Emporio, just before the south tip of Chios. Here, you should not miss the excellent food or the ambience and the friendly landlady in the tavern Porto Emporio.
Starting after the cape, the sandy beaches (Gold Beach) of Altinkum stretch for several kilometres, where you can anchor on the north side in the daytime. Be careful when approaching; there are a few rocks in the water. From here to Sigacik, there are coves almost every two to three miles. The first one is the spacious Mersin Körfezi, whose shoreline is bare and not very attractive. Much more attractive and much safer is the Sarpdere/Zeytineli Liman, with three protrusions that offer wind protection from all directions. Below the castle hill of Teos, you will find the two sister coves, Teos and Malkaya Liman (careful with shoals). When approaching Sigacik, please keep a respectful distance from the lighted cay of Esek. Sigacik has a small port with marina-like facilities (see above). In the small village Sigacik, you will find several small grocery stores and restaurants. We were most pleased, however, with the simple Pide Salonu on the small tree-shaded town square.
If you only have a week’s time, then you will have to be disciplined to finish this tour. If you have two weeks, your can afford a side trip to the Gulfs of Izmir, Candirli and Edremit. Generally, you won’t start off early on the first day; rather explore the boat first and allow a gentle start. Therefore, a good destination could either be a cove on donkey island Karaada, the peninsula Karaburun (Gerence Körfezi or Egriliman), a cove on the Greek island Oinousa or the ports Ormos Mandraki (Oinousa), Langada (Chios) and Marmaro (Chios). All ports are beautifully situated and offer attractive taverns. The sailing routes are between 10 and 20 sea miles. Most of the mentioned berths are well described in Part I.
If you have more time, you should not exclude the wonderful coves and quaint fishing villages of Izmir Körfezi. In Foca, you can berth in one of the many coves, which are protected by the offshore islands or in the port of beautiful Foca itself. In the large southern basin, protected from the historic Genoesian castle, there is generally a berth on a mooring. The basics of a marina are offered, notably electricity and water. If there is no space, you can freely anchor in the harbour. There are plenty of restaurants in the northern port all the way to the foot of the fort. We were especially impressed by the small fish market hall in the northern port, and especially by the nimble fish gutter and scaler, who also prepared our bream. On the third day, I would head toward Bademli – more specifically the wonderful berth between the island Kalem and the mainland (B in Horn/Hoop I, p. 140 et seq.) where you will find snow-white sandy beaches, forested shores and hot springs. There are supply possibilities. According to one customer’s testimony, with extreme care, you can enter the silted harbour basin in Bademli and will find a berth, in three meter deep water, a berth next to a fisherman’s tavern. As an alternative, you can go to Candirli or Dikili, if you prefer a port. Candirli Körfezi awaits sailors, offering several nice ports and coves, which you can visit if you have more time. On Wednesday at the latest, you should reach the Ayvalik archipelago and, according to preference, dock in one of the many coves or in the small ports of Alibey or in the developed marina in Ayvalik. The archipelago is very beautiful – and the evening view, which we saw from the tower ruins on Madenada, looking over the island and cove maze, was breathtaking and made up for our maquis-scratched legs. Actually, one day is not enough for this sailing highlight!
The direct route from Çeşme to Kusadasi is 70 sea miles; generally with good winds, you are there in 10 to 12 hours. But for sailors, it is the same as mountain climbers: The path is the goal. I would take a side-trip to Sigacik (see above) and go to the coves described under 1.
You can even go into the small grotto here! This cove could, by the way, also serve as your overnight berth, if you don’t wish to continue to Sigacik. We were also pleased with the anchoring cove Cam Limani, which is also suitable for overnight berthing during normal wind conditions. Kusadasi (Kus Adasi = Bird Island) has one of the largest marinas in Turkey (swimming pool!) with everything a sailor desires. You will also find one of the two fuelling stations in our region, where you can fill your yacht up directly (next to Hotel Altin Yunus). Kusadasi is one of the tourist towns of Turkey. Almost daily, cruise liners from around the world dock here. The ancient Ephesos is only a few kilometres away. It certainly belongs to the most impressive and well-kept of ancient towns and you shouldn’t miss it. Our partner agency, Gino, is located close to the marina – which, thanks to the huge sign on the roof of the multi-storey building, can’t be missed. You can easily organise your trip to Ephesos through Gino. Of the restaurants in Kusadasi, the fish restaurant Ali Baba on the harbour, which offers a gourmet menu, was particularly impressive. If you value a table by the water, you should make reservations.
Please take note that, during a strong Maltemi, extreme downbursts can occur on the south side of Samos. If you only have a week’s time, you need to start the return trip at this time. Even in the case of Maltemi, you can safely dock at Cape Doganbey. Should you wish to sail further towards Sigacik, the summer wind blows directly in your face. You can easily traverse or use the motor over the few miles since no large waves form in Sigacik Körfezi. Heading out from Sigacik, you experience a half wind and rough routes – perfect for the blister. Along the Çesme Peninsula, there is a wind with strong gusts, which accelerate out from the shore. Because you sail along the lee side, the waves are minimised. As for overnight possibilities, there are the coves further along the Turkish coastline mentioned above, or our favourite cove, Emporio on Chios (see above). If you would like to sail further south, maybe to Bodrum or even to Marmaris, then please request a regional guide and tour suggestions from us. Detailed information on these regions will soon be available on our web page. Our experienced support base manager can also advise and give you helpful tips!
You could visit this corner of the region if you only have one sailing week, or along with a tour to the north, when you have two weeks. Please use the chart D 1083 for navigation! The focus is on the quaint fishing villages on the Karaburun Peninsula: Yeniliman, Karaburun, Kaynarpinar, Mordogan, and Urla Iskelesi. In these ports you will find tranquillity, good fisherman’s taverns, and a beautiful area with sparkling clean water. The municipal office is helpful in advising on day trips into the surrounding area. This also applies to the many coves in Gülbahce Körfezi (= rose gulf) and to the offshore island group, Cicek Adlari, just off Urla. From Urla Iskelesi, a friendly and original fishing port, you can reach Izmir in a short amount of time with the bus, or Dolmus. You are not advised to enter this main port, although there are also several Marinas in Izmir.
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Last modified: 04.09.2008 |